diy

Upholster Your Own Headboard

Tue, 13 Apr 2010 15:06:06 +0100

How to Upholster a Headboard

Try it yourself with our how-to instructions below.

What You Need

Kraft paper and pencil
Two 3/4-inch-thick medium-density fiberboard (MDF) or plywood panels
Circular saw and jigsaw
Sandpaper
Screws
1-inch-thick soft-grade foam
Marking pen
Spray adhesive
Muslin
Measuring tape
T-pins
Upholstery Fabric (we used approximately 7 yards)
Matching sewing thread
Welting (purchased or made -- instructions below)
Staple gun and staples, 5/8-inch
Felt

Note

These instructions include making a muslin pattern to ensure proper fit before cutting the upholstery fabric. Sew with right sides facing and 1/2-inch seam allowances unless noted.

How to Make It

Step 1:

Decide on the size of your headboard; our headboard is wider than the mattress. Referring to the photograph, draw the headboard shape onto kraft paper and cut out. Trace around the paper template on each MDF or plywood panel with a pencil.

Step 2:

Cut on the traced lines, using a circular saw for straight cuts and a jigsaw for curves. Sand the edges to remove splinters. Screw the shapes together.

Step 3:

Place the template on the 1-inch-thick foam. Use a pencil or marking pen to draw a line about 2 inches beyond the edges of the template. Cut out the foam shape and attach it to the headboard base with spray adhesive. Roll the excess foam over the edges and secure to the sides of the base with the adhesive. Trim the foam even with the back of the base.

Step 4:

Draw two template shapes on the muslin. Cut out 1 inch beyond the side and top edges to allow for seam allowances and ease. Cut out 3 inches beyond all the other drawn lines to allow for overlap along the bottom and inner legs. Cut enough 3-1/2-inch-wide boxing strips from muslin to reach from one lower edge of the headboard to the opposite lower edge along the top line, plus 6 inches.

Step 5:

Sew the short ends of the strips together to make a long strip; press the seam allowances open. Use T-pins to secure a muslin piece on the headboard front. Pin the boxing strip to the front muslin shape and then to the back one. Check the fit of the muslin cover on the foam-covered base, adjusting as necessary.

Step 6:

When you are pleased with the fit, carefully remove the muslin cover. Use a pencil to mark the side and top cutting lines 1/2 inch outside the pinned lines to allow for seams on the front, back, and boxing strip. Cut along marked lines as you remove pins.

Step 7:

Use the muslin pieces as patterns to cut a front and back from upholstery fabric, watching for straight of grain and for the placement of large motifs. Depending on the size of the headboard, it may be necessary to seam the fabric to achieve the needed width.

Step 8:

Use the width and length of the muslin boxing strip to cut boxing strips from the upholstery fabric. Sew the short ends of the strips together to make one long strip. Press the seam allowances open.

Step 9:

Sew welting (see instructions below) around the side and top edges of the front and back upholstery shapes. Pin the boxing strip to the front upholstery shape, sandwiching the welting between the fabric layers; sew the boxing strip to the front. Sew the opposite long edge of the boxing strip to the back upholstery shape in the same manner. Clip the corners and curved seams.

Step 10:

Turn the cover right side out. Slip the fabric cover over the foam-covered base. Beginning at the center bottom edge of the main headboard section and working outward toward the legs, pull the excess fabric from the back toward the front and staple in place on the underside of the base, positioning the staples close to the front of the headboard.

Step 11:

Trim the fabric that reaches beyond the staples. Pull the excess fabric from the front toward the back. Neatly fold under the raw edge of the fabric from the front and staple in place, covering the previous staples. Continue with the inner legs, trimming the fabric as needed and clipping carefully at the corners. Wrap excess fabric around the bottoms of legs and trim. Cut felt for the bottom of each leg; glue in place.

How to Make Welting

Step 1: Cut 2-inch-wide strips of fabric on the bias.

Step 2: Sew them into lengths.

Step 3: Wrap them around cotton cording.

Step 4: Machine-sew the seam using a zipper foot.

Bamboo Table Lamp

Fri, 02 Apr 2010 03:26:31 +0100

Can't find a lamp you like? Try making your own.

Tools needed:

geometric compass
drill
saber saw
sandpaper
blue painters tape
5/16" drill bit
tape measure
scrap wood
1/8" drill bit
screwdriver
hammer
hot glue gun
utility knife

Materials needed:

3/4" mdf board
four drawer pulls
surface mounted porcelain lamp holder
lamp cord set
two 5/16x48" wood dowels cut into four dowels at 22 1/4"
40 watt tube appliance bulb
23" wide matchstick roman shade
two hose clamps to fit 7" diameter
in-line off/on swtich (optional)

Step 1: cut the frame
using compass draw a 6 3/4" diamaters circle on two of the pieces of mdf. Draw another circle, 5 3/4" in diameter inside the other circle. On one of the pieces of mdf, drill a hole inside the smaller circle to accomadate the saber saw blade.Insert the ssaw blade and cut around the perimeter of the larger circle so you end up with a ring 6 3/4 inches in diameter. Cut around the perimeter of the 6 3/4" circle on the second piece of MDF. Sand the cut edges if needed to smooth and even them out.

Step 2: Drill holes in the fiberboard.
Wrap blue painters tape around the 5/14" drill bit to gauge a drill depth of 1/2" thick. check depth by drilling into a piece of scrap wood. Drill 1/2" deep holes in the MDF ring at four equidistant points. Drill corresponding 1/2" deep holes in the solid MDF circle.

Step 3: Attatch feet.
With the 1/2" bit drill four holes equally spread 1" in from the edge of t he circle and attatch drawer pulls as feet.

Step 4:Wire the lamp.
Mount the porcelain lamp holder in the center of the solid circle. Drill a 5/16" hole just to the outside of the lamp holder to feed the lamp wire through. Knot the lamp wire to prevent it from being pulled back through the hole. Attach the wire ends to the lamp holder contact screws,

Step 5: Reattach the lamp top.

Step 6: Resize the wood dowels.
Cut two 5/16x48" wood dowels to four dowels at 22 1/4" each.

Step 7: Secure dowels in holes.
Insert each dowel into the previously drilled 1/2" deep holes. Set the ring on top of the dowels and match them to the holes in it.Tap with hammer to fit evenly. screw in lightbulb.
Step 8: Glue lamp shade.Unroll the shade and remove the drawstring and any hardware that will be in the way. Hold the shade up and stretch it around the lamp frame to determine where to cut (there shouldn't be any overlap). Dab hot glue on the binding strings on matchsticks on each side of where you plan to cut. Flip the shade over and do the same on the back.

Step 9: Glue shade to frame.

Step 10: Secure the shade.
Attach the hose clamp at the bottom edge and tighten with a screwdriver. Next attach the second hose clamp at the top of the lamp.

EXTRA TIP:
If you already have a working lamp and want to enhance it with a new shade or base? Paint is an easy and simple enhancement. Use a paint stamp of stencil a design on to the existing shade or base with a paint pens. If you like a more industrial look add gromets to shade.

Etched Mirror

Fri, 26 Mar 2010 04:09:42 +0100

Etched Mirror

A quick way to add your own touch to a store bought mirror, or a mirror already intalled in your home is to add a custom etched design or word.

Step One: Cut out letters.

Find a front and size of letter or design you like on your computer. Print out and cut apart the letter/ design, leaving a narrow border.

Step Two: Color the back of each letter.

Tape all the letters together and color in with pencil.

Step Three: Press contact paper to mirror.

Cut a piece of contact paper to cover the mirror, smooth out all wrinkles.

Step Four: Trace around each letter.

Position the taped-together letters ont contact paper where desired. Trace around each letters with a pencil, to transfer the design. Remover paper pattern.

Step Five: Cut out letters.

Cut out the letters using a crafts knife. Be careful not to cut into the background, only the letters.

Step Six: Peel off the letters

Step Seven: Apply etching cream.

Using rubber gloves, apply the etching cream with a small foam brush. Follow manufacturer's instructions.

Step Eight: Rinse the etching cream.

Using your rubber gloves again, fill a small bucket with water. Using a dampned sponge begin to wipe of the etching cream. Continue untill none of etching cream is visible.

Step Nine: Remove remaining contact paper.

Peel away the rest of the remaing contact paper.

Faux Fireplace

Fri, 19 Mar 2010 17:59:46 +0100

Have you always loved the look of fireplaces and just did nt have extra money to build one in your home? Well this project will give you the look and feel of a real fireplace, mantel included.

Time to Complete:
experienced:2 hrs
Handy: 3 hrs
Novice: 4 hrs

Stuff you'll need:
Tools:

stud finder
pencil
level
tape measure
liquid glue
variable-speed drill and bits
hammer
nail set
sandpaper

Materials:

mantel kit and mantel cap
construction adhesive
drywall screws
molly bolt anchors
2" finishing nails
wood putty
paint/stain

Step one:

Mark the position of first leg:
Use the stud finder to mark studs, then mark where you want the first leg of the mantel to go. Try to position the legs over the studs. Check for plumb and draw a line on the wall where the outside of the first leg will be positioned.

Step two:
Measure for mounting board
Measure in 1/4" from the outside of the first leg. This marks the position for the mounting board. Check for plumb using a level and draw a line marking placement of the mounting board. Determine the position of the other leg and repeat steps 1 and 2 for the other leg.

Step three
Apply liquid glue:
To secure the mounting boards, apply liquid glue to the back of the board. Follow manufacturer's insructions. Attach the board to the wall where you marked.

Step four
Secure Mounting board:
Drive screws though the mounting board and into studs for the most secure attachment. If the mounting boards are not positioned over studs, use molly bolt anchors to secure the boards to the wall. Repeat steps 3 and 4 for the other mounting board.

Step five
Attach firelace leg
Position the first leg over the mounting board. Drill pilot holes trough the leg and into the mouning board. If desired use construction adhesive to hold the leg in place.

Step six
Countersink Nails
Drive a finishing nail through each pilot hole and into the mounting board. To keep from marring the surface of the leg with the hammer, use a nail set to countersink the nails. Repeat steps 5 and 6 for the other leg.

Step seven
Attach Skirt
The skirt will rest in place on the leg. Secure it by applying a thin bead of construction adhesive to the top of each leg where the skirt wil lrest on it. For a stronger connection drill pilot holes through the skirt into the leg support. drive finishing nais through the skirt into the leg support.

Step eight
Mark the position of the matel
Rest the matel cap on top of the skirt check for level. Using a pencil mark the top of the matel cap on the wall.

Step nine
Measure for mounting board
First measure the top board of the mantel cap to verify where to position the mounting board, from the mark you made for the top of the matel cap measure down 1/4" and mark.

Step ten
Attach mounting board
Apply a thin bead of construction adhesive to the back of the mantel cap mounting board. Position the mounting board on the wall and check for level. Drive screws through the mounting board and into the wall. Be sure to drive at least 3 screws into studs.

Step eleven
Secure mantel
Rest the mantel cap on the mounting board. Drill pilot holes through the mantel cap and into the mounting board. Drive finishing nails into the pilot holes, through the cap, and into the board, use a nail set to countersink the nails.

Step twelve
Fill nail holes
Attach the decorative caps to the bottom of each leg using finishing nails. Fill nail holes with putty and sand for a smooth finsh. Apply paint /stain as desired and allow to sry. If desired apply a decorative technique - such as the tiles on the finished project - the firebox area.

Ottoman

Fri, 12 Mar 2010 15:48:17 +0100

Making an ottoman that is equally natural and unique is a great way to add interest to a small room or study.

To make your own St. Thomas inspired ottoman you first need:

tape measure
pencil
tablesaw
eye protection
four 2" spring clamps
needle nose pliers
hammer
lighter
hot-glue gun
tape
scissors

Material

4' piece of 2x2" wood, cut to four, 10 -1/4" lengths
two 24" diameter pieces of round particleboard
small box of #18-5/8" wire nails
1/8" tempered hardboard cut to make two 11-1/2" x 48" panels
wood glue
five ball casters
twenth 3/4" wood screws
200' spool of twisted polypropylene rope.

Step 1 - Cut supports to length

Using the tablesaw cut four 10-1/4" lengths of 2x2" wood pieces. These will connect the top to bottom of the ottoman and provide a framewoork for the hardboard.

Step 2 - Build the framework

Position the four 10-1/2 x 2x2" wood pieces upright between the 24" rounds. Place them equidistant. Align an edge with the edge of the round. Use glue and screws or nails to join the rounds and the 2x2s.

Step 3 - Resize the hardboard

Cut the hardboard to two 11 1/2 x 48" pieces. You'll wrap the frame with these before applying the rope finsh.

Step 4- Mark the panel

Using spring clamps, clamp an 11 1/2" end of the panel to the center of one of the 2x2s. Draw a line on the 2x2 to mark where the panel begins. Bend the panel halfway aroundand mark it so the panel can be cut to end in the center of another 2x2. This measurement will be aprox. 37".

Step 5 - Attatch the panel

Remove the panel and cut it to the proper length. Clamp, bend, and maek the second panel. Cut it ot the proper length. Clamp the panel in place with spring clamps. Begining at one end glue and nail it to the 2x2. Continue nailing the edge of the panel to the particleboard, placing nails every two inches. Neddle-nose pliers can be used to hold the nails if the are too small to handle with your fingers. Finish nailing the other end of the panel to the opposite 2x2.

Step 6 - Attatch the Second panel

Step 7 - Fasten the casters

Position the caters equidistant around the perimeter of the base. Make sure they are not too close to the edge. Attatch with 3/4" wood screws

Step 8 - Melt the rope end

To prevent the end of the rope from fraying, use flame to seal the end of it.

Step 9 - Glue the rope to the ottoman

Beginning at the bottom hot glue the rope around the side of the frame, continuing to glue at the top edge and continue to wrap the rope around the top, spiraling it to the center. Rotate the ottoman on the casters to make wrapping the rope easier.

Step 10 - Cut the rope

When about 1' of the rope is left before reaching the center, wrap it to the center to determine the amount of rope needed, and then wrap a piece of tape around the rope to the inside of where it will be cut. Use sharp scissors to cut rope.

Step 11 - Seal and glue the rope end.

Carefully use a flame to seal the end of the rope to prevent unraveling. Glue the remaing loose rope in place.

Now you have beautiful new ottoman for yourself or for a friend.

Special Thanks to the Home Depot Decorating Projects 1-2-3.

Cool New Blog

Thu, 11 Mar 2010 16:37:33 +0100

Some fellow students/ friends of mine started a new blog and it is great.

Check it out,

www.salvageinthecity.blogspot.com .

It's all about salvaging cool thrift store find and revamping them into a new beautiful piece of furniture or decorative dsiplay.

DIY

Thu, 11 Mar 2010 16:19:18 +0100

This will be fun new blog for all you do it yourselfers. Whether you are fixing up your old house or needing a good weekend project. It's time to roll up your sleves and put a little sweat equity into your home sweet home.
Come back soon to catch up on all your home improvements project.
Look forward to one post a week.